Brothers at the Wrist
Jonathan Grassi for The New York Times
By DAVID COLMANPublished: February 22, 2012KANYE WEST may go down in history for any number of things: his many musical genius moments on five platinum-selling solo albums; his less-than-genius personal-appearance moments, like his notorious interruption of the 2009 MTV Video Music Awards, or his dust-up with Matt Lauer on “Today.” MultimediaBut while the man is known for music and moods, don’t rule out his bracelets. Since appearing at the Coachella music festival last spring with a wrist full of bracelets from Cartier and Burkman Bros., Mr. West has not only given his endorsement to a trend on the rise, but he has, whether he likes it or not, also given it his name. Almost immediately, fashion and music blogs started referring to any and all bohemian wrist-tangles as “Kanye bracelets.” Burkman Bros. was so besieged by demand for its bracelets that the company introduced an e-commerce site to handle it, said Doug Burkman, one of the two brothers who are the owners. They have now sold more than 50,000. As of Wednesday, 790 auctions for bracelets on eBay made reference to the stylish rapper and producer. But the vogue for wrists roped in beads and twine is not driven just by Kanye followers. Courtesy of accessories companies like Miansai, Luis Morais, Tateossian and Kiel James Patrick, there was already a significant under-the-radar movement of guys, even conservative ones, gravitating toward them. “I remember back in 2008, meeting a banker in Switzerland who told me he had one of my bracelets,” said Mr. Morais, who is based in Miami. “If you had told me that I would sell a banker the same bracelet I sold a rock star, I would never have believed you.” The Burkman brothers, whose clothing line has a vintage-surf feel, learned about the trend in a different way. “I’ve always worn bracelets, since I was little,” said Ben Burkman, Doug’s brother. “So when we started the line, we tied a little handmade friendship bracelet on every piece of clothing as a kind of bond with the guys who buy our clothes. Stores started telling us that some people were just taking the bracelets, and then stores like Fred Segal in Los Angeles asked us if they could sell them, so we knew we were on to something.” To restate the obvious, the look is not about one perfect bracelet. What guys are after is a mix of colors, textures and materials, with a good, classic watch thrown in for good measure. You may want to max out at four or five lest you look more like Madonna ’84 than Kanye ’11. Especially since, unlike most accessories a man can wear, the Kanye bracelet often packs a bit of a punch, bringing a lot of color and personality to a relatively small piece of real estate. But then, a little jolt of transgression is exactly the point. “I first noticed it a couple of summers ago in Capri, where I saw Diego Della Valle, the owner of Tod’s, with a load of colored bracelets on, and he’s a fairly conservative dresser,” said Jeremy Langmead, the editor of Mr Porter, the online men’s retailer (who said he was himself wearing four Luis Morais beaded bracelets). “Then I started seeing these Milanese businessmen wearing them with their suits. To me it looks like something they got on vacation and didn’t take off. It says: ‘I am not completely a conformist. I might look like a wage slave, but I’m a hippie at heart.’ It’s little bit of escape on your wrist.” In other words, think of them as handcuffs that can set you free. A version of this article appeared in print on February 23, 2012, on page E11 of the New York edition with the headline: Brothers at the Wrist.
Men Step Out of the Recession, Bag on Hip, Bracelet on Wrist He’s back. Spending on men’s accessories, like handbags, grew 14 percent in the last half of 2011. The male shopper, who pretty much was missing at the onset of the recession, is buying again. And to the delight of retailers, he is not just stocking up on suits and dress shirts, but also doing something women have been doing for years: binging on accessories. Bracelets. Bags. Hats. Umbrellas. Men are buying so many accessories that some forecasters predict sales growth for men’s clothing and accessories during the first three months of this year will set a 20-year high. “That guy had been away for a while during the tougher times,” said David Witman, general merchandise manager of Nordstrom’s men’s division. To get traditional women’s accessories to appeal to men, some designers are giving them manly names and styles. That’s not really a bracelet; it’s wristwear. And that’s not a purse, nor the dreaded murse, but a holdall. “It doesn’t look like you borrowed it from your girlfriend,” Nicolas Travis, 24, a business school student who runs the blog Style Flavors, said of the manned-up styles he prefers. “A little bit more bling, and you run the risk of it looking a bit more feminine.” The return of the male shopper could have broad consequences for the economy. Retail sales plummeted during the recession, with men’s apparel sales dropping almost twice as fast as women’s in 2009, according to an I.B.M. Global Business Services analysis of retail data. Women started buying again, and that helped push the recovery along. But men held off on buying apparel and accessories until last year, when estimated men’s sales rose more than 8 percent, outpacing the growth in women’s sales. Spending on accessories is driving the men’s category: those sales grew 14 percent in the last half of 2011, to about $6 billion, according to the market research firm NPD Group. “Men were the last to start spending coming out of the recession,” said Eric Jennings, fashion director for men’s wear at Saks Fifth Avenue. “If they learned one thing through the recession, it’s that looking schlumpy is not going to help you keep your job, get promoted or get a new job. I think they’re taking their appearance more seriously.” The rebound in shopping may also reflect an improved jobs picture for men, who were hit disproportionately over the recession. The gap between men’s and women’s employment rates was about as high as it had ever been as the recovery started in June 2009. Only last month did the men’s and women’s unemployment rates reach the same level. The male models walking the runway at New York Fashion Week shows this month wore, among other adornments, scarves that could double as blankets; belts, pocket squares and fur neckwear; caps and handbags; feather necklaces; and metal cuffs. Jewelry designers and fashion executives say the trend comes largely from Italy and Japan, where men throw on silky scarves or pile on bracelets and berets with nonchalance. Given the proliferation of street-style blogs, young men, in particular, can quickly adopt trends from overseas. Mr. Jennings, of Saks, also points to TV shows like “Boardwalk Empire,” where the cool characters dress with panache, as a big influence. “Where before wearing a leather jacket and jeans was a way to rebel,” he said, “now you see guys on the fringe, edgier characters, wearing suits and pocket squares and tie bars.” He added, “Men are feeling more confident to experiment and realizing that they do have more options, and it’s showing in the numbers — it’s showing in sales.” At Burberry stores, for instance, men’s accessory sales increased about 50 percent in the six months through September 2011 compared with the same period a year ago. Coach, which makes items like briefcases and tote bags for men, says global sales of men’s goods doubled, to $200 million, for the fiscal year ending in June 2011, and it expects sales to double again, to $400 million, for its current fiscal year. The bracelet is perhaps the most striking example of the accessory craze. It is hard to imagine the archetypal businessmen of recent decades — the power-suited broker of the 1980s, the khakis-and-blue-oxford-shirt-wearer of the ’90s, or the hoodie-clad tech titans of the 2000s — selecting a piece of jewelry each morning as they dressed for work. But now, fashion executives say, sales of men’s bracelets, especially thin versions in leather or metal, are increasing at a rapid pace. “Bracelets are on fire right now,” said Tim Bess, who analyzes men’s fashions for the Doneger Group, a trend forecaster. “I’d say it’s the No. 1 look for the young man.” Tateossian, a London-based jewelry designer, says sales of its men’s bracelets rose 30 percent in 2011. “On a global basis we’re known as a cufflink brand, but in the past year our sales have shifted in a way that we’re selling, now, more bracelets than we are selling cufflinks” online and in Tateossian’s own stores, said Robert Tateossian, the company’s chief executive. When he saw the sales start to tick up, Mr. Tateossian said, he began pushing American retailers to increase their inventories. Saks, after testing his men’s bracelets at a few locations, is now carrying them more broadly, while Neiman Marcus has agreed to carry the bracelets this spring. “You can go to a meeting, and it will be discreetly hidden under your sleeve with just a piece showing,” he said. “You will look sharp, you will look professional, and you will have that complete look. In a way, it’s how to look polished without looking like a banker.” The designers are keeping the accessories as far away from the feminine as possible, for the most part. “It’s not necessarily a big statement saying, ‘I wear men’s jewelry,’ ” Evan Yurman, director of design, men’s and timepieces, at David Yurman, said of the company’s bracelets that can be hidden under a sleeve. Miansai makes its men’s bracelets out of thin rope, similar to what a rock climber would use, and uses a metal anchor as a clasp. David Yurman sells one made from braided brown rubber, and Diesel is producing leather cuffs studded with metal. “It’s leather; it’s hardware; it’s a military aesthetic,” said Theresa Palermo, marketing director for Fossil Inc., which has the license for Diesel accessories. Mr. Tateossian said his brightly colored bracelets, in shades of orange and red, had nowhere near the sales that more subdued versions did. Men, after all, can be pushed only so far. “The colors that have sold out? Take a guess,” he said. “The black, the blue and the brown.” A version of this article appeared in print on February 20, 2012, on page A1 of the New York edition with the headline: Men Step Out of the Recession, Bag on Hip, Bracelet on Wrist. I will always remember where I was on September 11, 2001. It was a Tuesday morning, a crisp and sunny day, at Bergdorf Goodman, being interviewed by Bruce Boyer, a fashion contributor to Departures magazine. A fairly new designer then, focused solely on Men’s jewelry and accessories, Departures decided to have a conversation about the Art of the Accessory in their Dress Code section. I was completely oblivious to my surroundings, intently and blissfully enjoying the dialogue, until the look on the sales associates’ face made me pause and wonder what I was doing wrong: utter concern and disgust! Did I do or say anything offensive? I wish that was the reason, but unfortunately I soon realized the world around us was crumbling and the management was anxiously waiting for Bruce to finish his interview and close the store to let everyone leave. It was a bitter sweet moment that will never be erased from my memories.
I have come to realize that Richard’s affinity for my work is due to the fact that I design for men just like him: smart, stylish, cultured, worldly and elegant, all in a blithely way. Jewelry is the last thing on his mind and so should it be. Masculine jewelry needs to be inconspicuous: Chains and heavy ornamentation, skulls or wide strap leather bands are attractive but to a few. I wish to design for the majority of men who don’t readily wear jewelry yet strive to discreetly express their stylish individuality. Our collection of bracelets achieves that goal, by blending casual or exotic material with precious metal in an understated way. Richard gets it and I am so grateful that he does. P.S. “Pardon my English – it’s not my first language!” WEAR YOUR SUPPORT, WEAR IT LOUD!
Recently, James Heaney, owner, web designer and programmer at Splash Media Lab redesigned my website. Friends! Over the past few years, the Live & Let Live collection has grown beyond my wildest dreams. One bracelet per charity, these pieces have thus far allowed you to spread awareness and raise funds in a new, chic innovative way. We’ve raised thousands of dollars and supported the work of some truly great non-profit organizations. With a growing number of causes, I saw the need to establish Live & Let Live as a standalone website and brand. Live & Let Live is jewelry with heart and purpose. Throughout all of the new collections, a portion of each sale will go to causes you care about! The website that my team and I have been building for the past 7 months is beautiful, impactful and out of this world! We have an incredibly modern shop replete with cool jewelry, charity pages, news articles, photography, music, and much much more. We are so excited for you to see everything we are doing and we urge you to sign up to stay privy to our launch schedule. We plan to launch right before the holiday season! Wear It Loud! Macrame Bracelet collection – August 2011 Let’s not kid ourselves! Men, in general, avoid jewelry. “It’s too feminine, too bold, too shiny…” understandable concerns worth addressing since 95% of men do not wear jewelry except a watch. If one is nervous about donning a bracelet, this collection of casual, cool and chic macramé rope bracelets with a tasteful sterling silver design will then win you over: Nothing overbearing, but rather something discreet that feels good and looks right. Solid yet understated, these manly bracelets are for the confident and sophisticated man, meant to be worn until time or salt water wears it away. Greenwich Polo Club Season (GPC) On six consecutive Sundays fron June 1st through July 13th, and again on September 7th and 14th, the Greenwich polo club will host a high-goal polo tournament and luncheon at Coyers Farm, Greenwich, Connecticut. Each match day will begin at 1pm with a pre-match luncheonfor GPC Player’s club Members, and match paly will begin at 3pm. The match, but not the luncheon, is open to the public for an entrance fee of $30.00. Catherine M. Zadeh is proud to be the exclusive 2008 jewelry sponsor for the GPC. Bridgehampton Polo Club season (BPC) There will be one high goal match played at 4:00pm on six consecutive Saturdays in July and August at the Bridgehampton Polo Club llocated at Two Trees Farm, Hayground Road, Bridgehampton, New York. The season, entitled The Mercedes-Benz Polo Challenge, will feature top-rated teams competing for two cups, The Mercedes-Benz Cup ,( July 19th, 26th and August 2nd) and the Hampton Cup (August 9th, 16th and 23rd). The level of play will be 20-goal. At each of the six matches during the season there will be a sponsored cocktail reception under the Hospitality Tent. Catherine M. Zadeh is proud to be the exclusive 2008 jewelry sponsor for the BPC. New York, NY – May 11, 2007 – Love wears a thousand faces. It sparks in the hearts of new lovers; it flows between married couples; it encircles two friends who have shared a great deal, and it bonds parent to child at first sight. Love is an ancient experience, but each time it grows, it is as unique as a fingerprint. Each love deserves celebration. Enter Toi et Moi, a new collection of modern, high-end, men’s and women’s jewelry from acclaimed designer Catherine M. Zadeh, who believes that just as every love is unique, so should its expression be. “David never wore a ring,” says Catherine of her husband, recalling her inspiration for Toi et Moi. “It’s too traditional and confined.” Instead, Catherine and David made the decision, as a couple, to wear hand-carved, buffalo-horn bracelets and to invest those bracelets with meaning. The bracelets signify the same love and enduring commitment expressed by wedding bands, but reflect Catherine and David’s personal style. Toi et Moi evolved from those bracelets to include also cuff links, earrings and necklaces, and every “masculine” piece in the collection has a “feminine” reflection. The sleek, architectural geometry of men’s cuff links may be paired with a woman’s pendant of similar design, accented with a delicate diamond. A graceful and feminine, column-shaped pendant, crafted from buffalo-horn fibers and bound by 18kt gold bands, echoes a bolder masculine one. But Toi et Moi is not only for couples. This collection celebrates love wherever it is found, and there is no right or wrong. Close friends may exchange the “Pyramid” pendant and layer it with their personal birthstone to capture and preserve a moment in their lives. A mother and daughter might mark a milestone in their relationship with matching, diamond-studded “Circle of Life” earrings. Toi et Moi may represent a promise, a memory – or a secret that only the two wearers will ever know. “Ideally, this jewelry is a reminder,” says Catherine. “You look at it and remember where you were, who you were with, and how you felt when you first put it on. It represents a moment in time, for both of you.” All pieces in the Toi et Moi collection are available in 18kt white, yellow and rose gold, with precious stone accents such as diamonds and sapphires, and all come in wenge wood keepsake boxes. |
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September 11th was not only my introduction to the world of Departures, a world of luxury, style and exclusive destination, privy only to the American Express Platinum holders but also to Richard David Story, its affable Editor in Chief. Since then, an ardent and infallible supporter, Richard has always judiciously showcased my work, and launched many of my endeavors: when in 2008, he propitiously saw my Live and Let Live Peace bracelet on a friend’s wrist and consequently featured it in his editorial, he inadvertently help me start my new collection of charity bracelets, bridging design with philanthropy. When I recently and auspiciously ran into him near his office in September, and saw the few bracelets donning his wrist, I suggested he sees my new Macramé collection. Needless to say, the bracelet collection was featured in the November 2011 issue.
